Overview
Now we have left the Pan-Am Peru is looking much better the scenery & the riding & Cusco old colonial town very touristy lots travellers as well as tourists.

28th October Friday Day off in Cusco
Easy day today in case of after effects of last night had lunch across the road from the hotel Dave P & Julie paid as a birthday treat.
Then put route in bike for tomorrow & fixed Micks broken L/H front indicator & L/H handguard feet up for an hour & then to Norton Rats bar for a bite to eat & a few drinks.
 

27th October Thursday 49726 - 49852 = 126 miles
Run out through Sacred Valley of the Incas split with group at Sacayhuaman Fortress so Dom & I did the run on our own stunning scenery temperature just right low 20s but cooled of when we climbed got back to Cusco about 3.30 pm had coffee in the square.
Group meal & two birthdays tonight John Jewells 60th & Dave Powers 45th (Friday). Went to Norton Rats to start with handed out presents to Dave & John Peruvian Ponchos & Hats then to restaurant & then to Cross Keys bar went to another bar / club live music & dancing MICK & I bailed out at about 12.30 am most of the others stayed until about 4.00 am.
 

26th October Wednesday Day off in Cusco
Got up 5.30 am for breakfast 6.30 am minibus & 7.00 am train to Machu Pichu 4 hours on the train zigzagged out of Cusco & stunning scenery got to Aguas Calentees at 11.00 am then 20 minutes on a minibus up to Machu Pichu had guide to take us round about 3 hours.
Then minibus back down (broke down on hairpin no armco second bus) train back was a chore after a long day in the dark it was boring got back to the hotel at 9.30 pm went to Norton Rats Tavern for a bite to eat & drink then bed (shattered).
 

25th October Tuesday Day off in Cusco
Easy day walking round Cusco taking in the square sitting drinking coffee & people watching. Ate in the restaurant across from the hotel had Alpaca steak tasted very much like beef.

24th October Monday 49599 - 49726 = 127 miles Abancay to Cusco
Must have eaten something dodgey last night was sick all night & the runs was still bad in the morning.
The road today was just as good as yesterday climbing & dropping between 3000 metres & 4000 metres temperature varying between 30°C & 12°C arrived in Cusco at about 1.00 pm pulled up in the main square for photos then rode round the corner to the hotel.
Still feeling bad so went to bed got up in the evening for a bite to eat & then an early night.

23rd October Sunday 49294 - 49599 = 305 miles Nasca to Abancay
Left at 8.30 am temperature up towards 30°C after about 10 miles we climbed from 500 metres to over 4000 metres then stayed on the plateau for about 100 miles or more then descended back down following the river to Abancay (2370 metres).
Both the riding & the scenery were excellent the road surface was bumpy on the way up melted tarmac on the top section & perfect surface on the way down.
Temperature dropped to about 14°C at the highest point but was back up to 30°C at Abancay arrived at about 4.45 pm nothing to do in town just a stopover point.

22nd October Saturday Day of in Nasca
Flew over the Nasca Lines in the morning felt queasy getting off the plane (12 seater) Dom was sick on the plane I think it was all the weaving from side to side to see the ground that did it.
Later had lunch at the hotel & an easy afternoon. Badge Ceremony tonight & Jeff was awarded the badge for having his wallet stolen when he picked up the van from shipping & other things.
 

16th October Sunday
Day off in Chiclayo
Went to Lord of Sipan Museum in the morning in a taxi (very bad driver) then back to the hotel.
Washed out the oil cooler then an easy afternoon by the pool but again still a cool wind.

15th October Saturday 48064 - 48323 =259 miles Mancora to Chiclayo
Basically the Pan-Am all the way with about 130 miles through the desert of northern Peru very much like Morocco both the landscape & the villages dry but cloudy with a temperature of 26°C but the wind in the desert was very cold & strong blowing the bike about & sand across the road.
Peruvian drivers seem to be the worst we have come across especially in the towns, lots of 3 wheeled motorcycle taxis & the small Daeoo car taxis.
On the desert section a coach was off the road on its side (tyre blow out)

Overview
Not a lot to say really the Airfreight went ok & what I have seen of South America so far seems good but after two enforced long stops its good to be back on the road again.

14th October Friday 47835 - 48064 = 229 miles Cuenca to Mancora
Leaving Cuenca at 2500 metres down to the coast the first half of the ride was excellent zigzagging down the mountains for about 100 miles to the Pan-Am & border crossing in the middle of town (market) .Usual paperwork will not except Carnet so hand written Permits.
Then Pan-Am to Mancora small beach town lots of travellers & beach bums stayed in small Hostel as hotel we were going to stay in had gone downhill. Kevin's birthday he got wrecked & we had a late night in a bar/disco across the road.
Temperature went from 14°C in the mountains to 26°C at the beach.

13th October Thursday 47528 - 47835 = 307 miles Quito to Cuenca
Good to be back on the road left at 8.00am dry but cool. Rained up in the hills then dry but rained for the last 30 miles 2 BMW riders led us out of Quito for the first 30 kms
Sophie had a good day on the back of Emmet & she is going to stay the night & fly back first thing in the morning.
Good scenery in the Andes & the hotel had thermal pools 40°C .

12th October Wednesday 47477 - 47528 = 51 miles
Owner of the hotel led us on a run to the Equator ( Ducati Multistrada ) first to the original marker then the new one new one is laid out with gardens cafes & gift shops & a museum you can go in & up onto the roof had lunch there & got back mid-afternoon.
Went to BMW dealer for Press Conference / Presentation it was very good food from the Hilton complete with waiters.
Met Sophie Vice Consulate from the British Embassy & she asked if she could ride with us tomorrow.
So she borrowed riding gear from the wife of a German at the embassy & she is going to ride on the back of Emmet.
 

11th October Tuesday
47465 - 47477 = 12 miles
Rode to BMW dealer for Oil changes engine/gearbox/final drive.
Did all the work ourselves with their equipment a lot of messing about then round the corner to the tyre place for 2 new tyres (Conti TKC 80s).
Group meal & met with a couple English/Australian at the restaurant came back to our hotel for a drink he got mugged by a 7 foot tall transvestite on the way back Mick & I had to pull him/her off, didn't get anything.
( rainy season rains every afternoon but in short bursts of 10 minutes )
 

10th October Monday
Not much to say about today hanging about the hotel waiting for the bikes to clear customs.
Quito is a large town in a basin much bigger than I expected. went to get the bikes about 4.00pm problems with the paperwork then having to work outside connecting battery mirrors screen etc in pouring rain, then rode back to the hotel in the rain & dark at about 6.00pm through the rush hour traffic.
47452 - 47465 = 13 miles  Temperature is cool about 16-20°C in the daytime & cold about 8-10°C at night.

9th October Sunday
9.00am left hotel for 11.45am flight out of Panama flight was delayed for 30 minutes for refuelling.
Arrived at Quito mid-afternoon (1 1/2 hour flight) 2800 metres so the altitude is affecting some people,raining in the evening & tired so ate in the hotel & early night.
 

8th October Saturday
Had an easy morning a bit of a wander round. Then SOS picked us up & took us to the Panama Canal Locks & Museum & Visitor Centre got back about 2.00pm had lunch then picked up laundry from around the corner including the bike suit which really stank with all the humidity & sweat.
Group meal with a show Ecuadorian dancers & celebrated completing the Northern Hemisphere.
 

Overview
As I have said before I have enjoyed Central America much more than I expected to, the people were friendly but the difference in living standards of the Countries is huge. Even within the same Country there is a massive difference.

7th October Friday
Went to a couple of shopping centres for a look round & buy a large bag for the flight on Sunday, not much else to say.

6th October Thursday 47438 - 47452 = 14 miles
Rode to Airport Freight Terminal & stripped bike for Air Freight mirrors & screen off drain fuel & disconnect battery only.
Left them at Panalpina for them to put on a pallet & strap down not in a fully enclosed crate.
Jobs only took about 1 hour but the paperwork took about 6 hours then back to the hotel in a taxi with 3 of us in plus gear the rear wheelarches were rubbing on the tyres over the bumps.
 

5th October Wednesday 47427 - 47438 = 11miles
Rode to BMW Dealer Car & bike for K & J to give a talk, press conference & photo shoot. Then went on to SOS Children's Villages met some of the children & had a tour of the complex & we all made a donation then back to the hotel & empty the bike ready for air freight tomorrow.

4th October Tuesday 47263 - 47427 =164 miles Santiago to Panama city
Straightforward run to Panama city all Pan-Am mostly dual-carriageway got to Panama about lunchtime rode on the Bridge of the Americas over the Panama Canal. Stopped on the seafront at the Balboa statue (founder of Panama city) then on to the hotel.

3rd October Monday 47028 - 47263 = 235 miles Chinguinola to Santiago
Left at 9.00am only a few miles & then another Banana Bridge (so called because it was & is the railway bridge for transporting the bananas. This was about three times longer than the first one & was mostly 3 planks wide on the outside of the rails so vehicles can cross between trains.
A one way system with police at either end controls the traffic, some rode across Dom & Kevin others paddled their bikes across there was a bit at the end with parts of the planks missing. I was the last to go but because of the time it had taken the others to paddle through I had to wait until all the traffic from our side had gone.
Went through stood on the pegs no problem apart from catching up the traffic had to stop twice, on the bad bit just half a plank wide out of three just gunned it straight over & hoped for the best.
Set off then straightforward run to Santiago but riding with Dom & Dave P they passed a police car I went to pass & he flagged me down (for passing on a corner he said) wanted me to ring Dave & Dom on his mobile to come back. In the end I was getting a ticket for 50 US$ but got away with a bribe of 35US$ even through I didn't do anything he was just mad because Dave & Dom didn't stop.
 

2nd October Sunday 47007 - 47028 = 21 miles
Rode back to the Banana Bridge to help the others cross the temperature was about 40°C & the humidity 95%. The border was longwinded but no one liked the bridge but Dom the look of terror in Doug & Jonathan's faces it took until about 1.00pm & then back into town.
Went to the same bar as last night at about 3.00pm & stopped all night the same band was on in the evening & disco (Reggie Music).

1st October Saturday 46843 - 47007 = 164 miles La Virgen Sarapiqi to Chinguinola
Straightforward day rode to the hotel at Cahuita had a drink then set off with Kevin (Adam on the back) Mick Fitz & me & rode to the Panama border, getting out of Costa Rica not bad then it took us time to to ride the Banana Bridge Kevin went first got most of the way then dropped it because of a broken plank (right side of the rails).
Mick went second & got across because of his long legs (left side), I went on the left side & got 3/4 of the way across & had to stop (workmen had taken up some of the planks to replace them) & I couldn't touch the floor so I just fell over then we walked it the last bit.
Cleared customs with a bit of trouble with a lorry driver trying to push in then rode 10 miles to town absolutely wet through with sweat .
Managed to get rooms at the hotel we wanted for tonight but cannot get the group in tomorrow will have to stay at the hotel across the road tomorrow night (not as good).
Got changed & walked down the main street (only street) to a Bar/Restaurant with an Afro/Bob Marley feel Live Band & Dancing at 2.15am Mick & I left Kevin & Adam with staff & family still going strong.

Overview
The borders were easier than expected but changing currencies every two or three days is a right pain. The humidity is sapping as well as not being able to get things dry but I have enjoyed it much more than I expected

30th September Friday Day off in La Virgen Sarapiqi
Went flying through the Rainforest Canopy this morning excellent running on the wires (cables) through the Rainforest 100ft from the ground on 14 runs varying from 100 metres to the longest & last at 300 metres over a river 45 US$ but well worth it.
Some went white water rafting in the afternoon but I sat listened to the jungle & watched the birds lizards & the brightly coloured poisonous frogs.
As usual it started raining at about 2.00pm. Only thing with that is because of the humidity nothing will dry out, even the clothes that you have just taken off seem damp.
Badge Ceremony tonight because we won’t all be together tomorrow.
Dave P got the badge for following through in a restaurant & then staying to finish his meal although quite a few late nominations

29th September Thursday 46721 - 46843 = 122 miles La Fortuna to La Virgen (Sarapiqi)
Left at about 9.00am clear & sunny but very shortly we climbed into the cloud, stopped & put on overgear & ran into the heaviest rain I have ever experienced & it rained for the rest of the day.
Definitely the rainy season & the last section of road was also one of the slippiest like riding on glass.
Arrived at the hotel a lodge in the rainforest on the gravel road into the car park Jack & Emmet dropped their bikes but only at low speed.
Later in the afternoon a phone call from Jonathan to say Julia had an accident & taken to hospital (broken wrist) Kevin left with Jeff & Adam in the van & came back with Julia about 1.30am & she has her wrist in plaster.
She slid off on that bad section of road at about 25 MPH back end just slid out bike not badly damaged basically just bent handlebars.

28th September Wednesday 46553 - 46721 = 168 miles Playa Hermosa to Volcan Arenal
Torrential rain all night & still raining in the morning. At 8.00am sat having breakfast in 30°C temperature & 100% humidity I was wet through just sitting having breakfast.
Left at about 9.00am still raining bike gear & rainsuit (my own personal sauna). Rode in pouring rain for the first 70 miles then stopped & took off the rainsuit after that it was just heavy showers so I decided to get wet & then dry out.
On last section stopped for lunch by Lake Arenal & rode around lake the road was pat tarmac part dirt & you felt like you were riding right through the jungle in fact on parts of it the overgrowth was encroaching over the road.
Got to la fortuna small family run hotel very nice but like the town you can tell a lot of Americans come here. Menus in English & properties for sale villas etc.

27th September Tuesday 46451 - 46553 = 102 miles San Juan del sur to Playa Hermosa
Early start 6.30am breakfast temperature in the 30°s & high humidity shirt just wet through just sat having breakfast.
Left at 7.15am at the border for 8.00am when it opened, expected this to be one of the worst crossings for time but like the others it was better than expected & we were through by 11.30am & with only about 75 miles to the hotel (on the Pacific) some of us went straight to the hotel got changed & had lunch by the beach.
After lunch went for a swim in the ocean very warm but very big waves did some body surfing then chilled out on the beach which was very clean (hard work this adventure motorcycling)
Ate under the veranda of the hotel watching the rain pour down.
 

26th September Monday 46387 - 46451 = 64 miles Granada to San Juan del Sur
Short ride straight to San Juan del sur on the Pacific Coast arrived at hotel late morning, roads today very potholed.
Temperature on leaving Granada was 35°C & what must have been 95% humidity at 8.30am.
Walked down to the beach & had a snack in a restaurant the whole place is very ramshackle & run down a lot of poverty, drunks & people begging.
Shortly after lunch it started to rain & rain & rain.
In the evening ate in a different restaurant on the beach the sky cleared & it was a pleasant evening early night as border day tomorrow.

25th September Sunday 46208 - 46387 = 179 miles Ocotal to Granada
Shortish day today to Granada old colonial town went via Masaya Volcano (active volcano last erupted in 2001) still smoking & in the car park you have to park facing out so if it erupts you can make a quick getaway.
Then short ride there to Granada hotel right in the town square & Sunday is usually the busy night for the locals.
Started raining mid afternoon & rained all night so not many people about in the evening. Ate in a restaurant around the corner Jimmy's run by an American.
We were also advised not to go more than 1 block away from the square or it would not be safe (into the slum areas).
 

24th September Saturday 46172 - 46208 = 36 miles Danli to Ocotal (Nicaragua)
Short mileage day today as expecting long border crossing. Early start left hotel at 7.30am arrived at border about 8.00am (19 miles ) but as before the whole process has been speeded up although there is still a lot of paperwork we were through the border & at the hotel (17 miles) before 11.00am & that includes losing 1 Hour.
Excellent road from the border to Ocotal brand new tarmac & flowing bends. Humidity not too bad this morning but getting worse now as the cloud starts to build up for the afternoon rains temperature again in the mid 30°C. Easy afternoon by the pool catching up on diary & things like that.
 

Overview 17th - 23rd September
The further south we go in Central America the poorer the Countries seem to be, but no one seems to be starving, it could be the abundance of food around on the trees etc. But the people seem generally quite happy. Much happier than the people in Mexico. I was unsure about Central America, but I have really enjoyed it - the scenery, the people, the whole thing.

23rd September Friday 45845 - 46172 = 327 miles Copan Ruinas to Danli
Good ride through Honduras on a mixture of roads & good scenery. Early start 7.30am one stop for lunch & got to hotel at 3.00pm. Temperature in the mid 30°s humidity not as bad as last couple of days. Road surface generally not too bad apart from the last section which was heavily potholed & a lot more traffic on the roads in the afternoon. On one part on a twisty downhill section I went round a corner to find coming up a bus overtaking a truck. Fortunately enough room for me to squeeze through. Like the rest of Central America - no rules on the road. Group meal tonight & chat ready for border crossing tomorrow.

22nd September Thursday Day off in Copan
 Went Horse Riding in the morning - not as painful as expected. Went up into the hills to a small village, visited the school & a couple of houses. One was cooking the school dinner & gave us a sample - quite good. (I can't believe Ted would get on a horse, can you?? Where are the brakes!) Got back at lunchtime & went into town for lunch. An easy afternoon sitting in the garden catching up on the washing & writing diary. High humidity most of the time now also the rainy season proper, it rains every day at about 3 or 4pm temperature in the mid 30°s.

21st September Wednesday 45804 - 45845 = 41 miles Chiquimula to Copan Ruinas Left hotel at 6.30am early start to get to border. Arrived at border just after 7.00am & expected to spend most of the day there, but we cleared ourselves & bikes & arrived at hotel 10 miles over border by 9.15am (Hotel owned by an American called Howard) had coffee in the garden, after getting in the rooms we had lunch in the town then went to Mayan Ruins had a guide at the cost of 25 US$ for a group of 6 very good well worth it. Ate in the town in the evening.

20th September Tuesday 45665 - 45804 = 139 miles Coban to Chiquimula Short ride to close to Honduras border. First half good road surface & nice flowing bends along with good scenery. After mid morning stop we dropped into valley floor and the temperature went up & humidity, arrived at hotel about 1.15pm. Basic but clean (no hot water) Very busy town & seems to be reasonably well off.

19th September Monday 45543 - 45665 = 122 miles Chichiccastenango to Coban Weather started off cool had to put fleece on. First 50 miles to Scapulas was tarmac & stopped for coffee. After that about 60 miles of dirt roads over the mountains. Great road right into the heartland of Guatemala, but about the first half had lots of landslides & roadwork's (it looks like they are going to tarmac it possibly before the 2007 trip) last part was single track. Got to Santa Cruz & just 15 miles of tarmac to Coban. Quite a big town (even a Macdonald's) nice hotel with enclosed gardens. Ate in the hotel good meal - lots of choice on the menu. Started to rain in the evening & rained very heavy most of the night temperature was in the low 20°s.

18th September Sunday 45519 - 45543 = 24 miles Panajachel to Chichiccastenango Very short ride to busy market town arrived 10.30am got changed & walked around markets & town, then sat & people watched again. Lots of travellers & tourists. Supposed to be one of the best markets in Central America lots of stalls selling blankets, trinkets and also Veg,Shoes,& Hardware as well as food stalls. Hotel was very good & straight across the road from the market.

17th September Saturday Day off in Panajachel Walked down to the lake in the morning & had a walk around town (really just 1 main street). Then sat in a bar / restaurant & had lunch, sat & people watched for about 3 hours (fascinating). Returned to the hotel mid afternoon to chill out by the pool. Panajachel is quite a busy little town full of travellers & lots of tourists. Full of market stalls & cafes etc, ate in the same restaurant as last night by the lakeside live band (not very good)

Overview  10th - 16th September
Although I enjoyed Mexico, I prefer Guatemala. Much poorer but much friendlier, roads & standard of driving about the same as Mexico & no Topes (speed bumps) Also got over the fever & the runs, so for the first time in 2 weeks I am eating properly.(lost about 1 stone).

16th September Friday 45257 - 45519 = 262 miles St Christabal to Panajachel
Up before 5.00am for quick breakfast & 6.00am start arrived at Mexican Border at 8.00am about 100 miles. It took about 1 hour to clear Mexico, we split into 3 groups to go into Guatemala. 1st group left & we waited about 3/4 hour then we followed on & the 3rd group waited another 1/2 hour then they followed on. Arrived after 3 miles of no-mans land at the Guatemalan Border, it wasn't as bad as I expected, although still a lot of chaos. 1st Bike Fumigation & pay Q12.5 2nd Immigration (self) & pay Q30.0 3rd Customs (bike) & pay Q41.0

Lots of paperwork forms in triplicate, but it all went quite well, possibly because it was Mexican Independence Day Holiday & not much other traffic. Cleared the border by 11.30am & the roads to the hotel were excellent, new tarmac, better than Europe. Arrived at hotel at about 3.30pm. Nice hotel & the Guatemalan people seem friendlier than the Mexicans. Walked into town in the evening for a meal & found out we had gained 1 hour.

 15th September Thursday Day off in St Christabal
Had a walk around town this morning watching the preparations for the Independence Day Celebrations tomorrow. Unfortunately we will be leaving Mexico early in the morning & will miss it all. Spent the afternoon sorting things out for crossing into Guatemala in the morning.

14th September Wednesday 45110 - 45257 = 147 miles Palenque to St Christabal
Short day through Tropical roads called in at Aqua Azul Waterfalls on the way arrived at hotel about 2.00pm ,had a short walk around town in the afternoon. Group meal in the evening & early night no drinking as still on Antibiotics. Climbed back up to 2000+ metres & into the pine forests.

13th September Tuesday Day off in Palenque
Went to the Mayan City at Ruinas. Very impressive in the jungle, like most of these places you want to know how & why they built it all & what happened to them. An easy afternoon trying to do a few odd jobs, but still feeling unwell. The fever subsided - but had the runs for the last week. (Too much information there Ted!). Taking Antibiotics to kill the bugs, as nothing else seems to work.

12th September Monday 44809 - 45110 = 301 miles Catemaco to Palenque Nothing much to say about today mostly dual carriageway type roads still with potholes - just a question of covering the mileage. The countryside has changed through Mexico. To begin with we ran down the spine in the mountains, then down the Caribbean & into the tropics. Now down to Palenque into the edge of the jungle. Nice hotel - all rooms are bungalows with thatched roofs. At the hotel was a show representing Mayan culture, done in a hall built around a tree

11th September Sunday 44594 - 44809 = 215 miles Costa Esmeraldas to Catemaco
Felt better today Rode as a group until mid morning where we met a group of Mexican riders that had ridden out from Mexico City. Had a snack with them in a restaurant & they rode with us for a while & then made their way home. Later on some stopped for lunch but half of us rode straight to the hotel & arrived at about 2.30pm. The temperature was in the high 30°s but the humidity is a killer.

10th September 44404 - 44594 = 190 miles Huetjutlas to Costa Esmeraldas
Short day, but the humidity was really bad. It will be like this all the way to Panama. Got to the hotel just after lunch. The hotel is on the edge of the beach (Caribbean). Had an easy afternoon on th e beach & by the pool. Group meal tonight & the badge ceremony. Dom. got the badge for dropping his bike at the petrol station. Went to bed early with a fever, had a temperature all night - dripping with sweat.

Overview Report 7 3rd - 9th September
Enjoyed Mexico so far, road surfaces not to bad, traffic not to bad apart from the towns. But the rule of the road seems to be there isn't one - its everyman for himself. But the worst thing by far is the Topes (speed bumps). They are everywhere. Some are harsh & some are quite mild, but you never know & half the time there are no signs telling you that they are there. The poverty compared to the USA is a huge difference between the haves & the have nots.

9th September Friday 44089 - 44404 = 315 miles San Miguele de Allende to Huetjutlas
Hard riding day first 120 miles motorway type going after that but for the last 30m miles it was really tight mountainous going - short straights, tight bends, potholes & gravel - then the last 30 miles was into a town & bad traffic, but worst of all were the Topes (speed bumps). There were 100s of them on the last section. Stopped for lunch at a little village in the mountains. Home-made Pasties for me, Emmet had Rice steak & eggs with wraps. We got to the hotel at about 6.30pm. The temperature in the mountains was only 18°C but when we dropped off the mountain the temperature went up to 35°C & the humidity went sky high it was really oppressive. I was worn out when we got to the hotel, ate snacks in the square.

8th September Thursday 43866 - 44089 = 223 miles Zacatecas to San Miguele de Allende.
Quite a boring riding day today - straight roads & scenery much of a sameness. Stopped in Pinos for coffee, then rode straight through to the hotel, arrived at about 2.30pm. Had a little walk round - quite a busy little town - a lot of white faces for the first time since the USA (very popular with the Americans.) Ate in a Bar / Restaurant called Mama Mia's first live music was two acoustic guitarists, then later when people had eaten, the centre tables were moved & a Cuban band played & people danced. Quite a few locals in. An American woman called Sheri tried getting friendly with everyone (she said she was just going through a divorce.)

7th September Wednesday Day off in Zacatecas.
Went up in cablecar to Church / Museum on top of hill, good views over city. Back down & had a walk around - the town was preparing for a religious festival (but I don't know what.) Quiet evening as an early start tomorrow .

6th September Tuesday 43437 - 43866 = 429 miles Parral to Zacatecas
Long riding day just to get the miles in, not as bad as expected - scenery a bit nonish, but some nice flowing bends. Did it with 2 short stops 1st at 200 miles & 2nd at 350 miles. Arrived in Zacatecas at 3.00pm had a walk around the town (University town) & ate in local restaurant. Because of running down the spine of Mexico so far we have been staying at altitude between 2000 & 2500 metres so the temperature has been in the mid 20°s. One point about driving in Mexico are the Topes (speed bumps) they are really harsh & some are steel semi circles would be really great in the wet!! There are lots of these on the entrance & exits of all villages & small towns.

5th September Monday 43206 - 43437 = 231 miles Creel to Parral
One of the best riding days of the trip. Of the 231 miles of todays route, 200 miles was perfect riding road twisting & turning through the mountains with only about 20 miles of bad road surface. Called at a really small restaurant for lunch in the middle of nowhere. Temperature was 18°C when we left at 8.30am & still a bit misty but soon warmed up to about 25°C. Got stopped at yet another military checkpoint but no hassle. Arrived at Parral at about 2.30pm & had a walk around town.

4th September Sunday 42932 - 43206 = 274 miles Neuvo Casa Grandes to Creel
8.45am start. Rode with Dom. from the hotel & caught up with Kevin & the A team at coffee stop. They left & the Van Riders caught us up, Dave P joined us for the rest of the day. Stopped for lunch at Guerrero - just started to rain while we were in the restaurant, it thundered & lightened & absolutely poured down for about an hour, The roads in the town square were flooded . On leaving lunch stop we put on our overgear but had a dry ride until about 5 miles from the hotel & it poured down again. The people are really friendly, but very poor, The villages just look like Morocco. We ate in the town at a local restaurant

3rd September Saturday 42647 - 42932 = 285 miles Tucson to Nuevo Casa Grandes
Early start today 5.30am breakfast to leave at 6.00am 100 miles to border. Arrived at border at about 7.45am got held up a little at the US side, but the Mexican side didn't take as long as expected & so we cleared the border at about 12.30pm. Then nearly 200 miles in Mexico. First section of road was quite bad for about 30 miles, but after that it was quite good. Had to take care as the driving standards are bad. Pulling out in front of you, turning off & stopping suddenly. Rule of the road is 'There isn't one'. Got to the hotel at about 5.00pm. Group meal tonight & it was Mike Jewells birthday - passed a bottle of tequila round the table & finished it off. Badge Ceremony & I kept the badge for the accident in Nick Fitzs hire car (Mick's son) when a woman backed into Doug & me at the Post Office. Stayed cloudy most of the day temperature about 24°C.

27th August - 2nd September
Overview The Moab / Mexican Hat section was really good, except for the run down to Tucson which was quite boring. All week the temperature was in the high 30s to 40°C, but it was dry very with little humidity, so the going wasn't too bad. After the stay in Tucson I will be glad to be on the move.

2nd September Friday
A full day sorting out bike & gear etc, posted a box of stuff back home. (Yes loads of un-necessary gear - spare tee-shirts, riding gloves, something for to fit to the RT when he gets home, maps of Alaska, Canada & North America, no longer needed) Had a group meeting at 3.00pm regarding Mexico. Fuelled bike up ready for 6.00am start tomorrow. (Ted & 6.00am? is this the same person I've known for over 30 years?)

1st September Thursday
Picked up bike from Iron Horse BMW 6000mile service & new tyres Conti TKC80s for the roads in Central America. Did a bit of shopping for the next leg.

31st August Wednesday
3 days off in Tucson Easy day today by the pool taking time to chill out. (Ted chill out??)  

30th August Tuesday 42110 - 42615 = 505 miles Jacob Lake to Tucson
Long days ride today. Set off at 6.30am temperature was 11°C, but within 30min & we had dropped to the bottom of the valley it was 24°C Stopped for breakfast & lost 11/2 hours. We stopped again to regroup in Sedona for more than 1 hour. Got to Roosevelt Dam & waited 1 hour for others to catch up. No sign of them so we set off to Florence, waited there 1 hour & just about to leave when the others turned up. Rode to Oracle Junction & met with local riders including Maynard Hershon & they led us to Iron Horse BMW who had stopped open for us. Left the bikes for service & they ferried us back to the hotel. By this time it was about 8.00pm A lot of time wasted by trying to regroup - we could have been in Tucson at least 2 hours earlier.

29th August Monday Day off in Jacob Lake
Lots of old cars at the motel first thing in the morning - some kind of Rally around the Grand Canyon. Went for a run to North Rim of the Grand Canyon 3 different View Points 41971 - 42110 = 139 miles Sorted out few things for an early start tomorrow.

28th August Sunday 41675 - 41971 = 296 miles Mexican Hat to Jacob Lake Rode
the Mokee Dugway & the Valley of the Gods again with Dave P (because he missed it yesterday, due to trying to do the Black Bear Pass, - but failed as it was too difficult ) After that, back on route. Went to Monument Valley & did the loop road through the valley. Must say I preferred the Valley of the Gods, better scenery & no people. After Monument Valley it was a straight ride to Jacob Lake. Lots of main roads, with the temperature touching 40°C. The Oil temperature on the bike has been running at 6 bars for most of the day. I must clean out the oil cooler as its full of dead insects.

27th August Saturday 41435 - 41675 = 240 miles Moab to Mexican Hat
Great day today Hot all day Temperature 26°C-38°C Straight forward at first, but the road down to Mexican Hat (so called because of the shape of a nearby rock), the Mokee Dugway is a dirt road about 3 or 4 miles long, Zig Zags in a series of hairpins down to the bottom of the valley. Don't know how deep - but it's a long way. Straight after that a 1st left for the Valley of the Gods road - 17 miles of gravel right through the middle of the valley through all the rock formations then a short blast on the road to the motel Stunning scenery straight from a western.

Overview
Although a lot of Americans from both coasts discount the centre states (flyover states) I really enjoyed them, the countryside was really varied but most of all the people were really friendly wherever we went. But one thing you do notice is that the Pickup is King. 9 out of 10 cars on the road are Pickups & some of them are huge.

26th August Friday Day off in Moab
Hot all day temperature in the 30s by 9.00am. Went on a run out to Canyonlands National Park & then back up Colorado River Canyon & the Castle Valley Loop road after running in the valley bottom the road rises into the mountains & the temperature was at least 10°C cooler then it dropped back into Moab. Got awarded BMW Man Badge at Fridays group meal for escapades at Cody.

25th August Thursday 40973 - 41206 = 233 miles Vernal to Moab
Easy days riding, but getting hot started in the morning at 24°C & peaked in the afternoon at 40°C. Set off on my own but got to top of Douglas Pass & met with Doug & Julia. Once we came down off Douglas Pass it turned to scrubland / Desert then
the last 50 miles into Moab was following the Colorado River Canyon with huge red rock formations. After booking in at the hotel I set off to do the Arches National Park which was a 60 mile round trip which had very different rock formations, got back to the hotel at 7.30pm temp still in the high 30s Arches N P run out 41206-41266=60m

24th August Wednesday 40559 - 40973 = 414 miles Cody to Vernal
Long riding day both the scenery & the temperature changed during the day dramatically mountains / flat plains / mountains / gorges. Temperature started off at 13°C up to 30°C down to 14°C & back up to 32°C. Lots of long straight roads. Nearly got pulled for speeding again (3rd time) an unmarked car was in a row of traffic & I was working my way past the traffic when I got behind him he just flicked on the lights in the back window so I had to sit behind him for about 30 miles. Rode on my own all morning but at lunch stop met with some off the others & rode with Mick Fitz in the afternoon arrived at the hotel at about 5.00pm.

23rd August Tuesday Day off in Cody
Over-indulged last night, so a little delicate this morning - had a look around town during the day . In the evening we went to a Rodeo. I didn't think I would enjoy it, but it was really good. The Americans can really put on a show. The hotel we stayed at was called Irmas, which was bought & named by Buffalo Bill for his daughter.

22nd August Monday 40305 - 40559 = 254 miles Old Faithful to Cody
Rode up east side of the of the park. Very busy - saw lots of Buffalo/Bison, large herds & 2 small herds on the road. The Beartooth Pass was closed (supposed to be the most scenic in the USA) so rode to the top & back down the same side & then went over the Chief Joseph Highway fabulous riding road. Travelled on my own until late afternoon when I came across Julia & Dave Power so I rode the last 60 miles with them, temperature started at 16°C at Old Faithful & got up to 30°C in Yellowstone dropped to 10°C over Beartooth Pass rain & hail & then got back up to 26°C in Cody.

21st August Sunday 40069 - 40305 = 236 miles Livingston to Old Faithful
Riding through Yellowstone National Park today again it started off cool 14°C but by mid afternoon it was in the low 30°s, very spectacular scenery as you would expect but again 35 & 45MPH speed limits & lots of double lines. Got to Old Faithful Snow Lodge & rooms were not ready, so I went for a run south to Teton National Park & got back to the hotel at 6.30pm just in time to see Old Faithful erupt at 7.00pm. Only trouble with being on the bike was keeping stopping & getting off back on stop again its hard work after about 10 times.

Overview
The thing that hits you about Canada, like Alaska, is the sheer scale of the place - open wilderness & no traffic, until we got down towards the US border. The further south we got the more RVs (motorhomes) there were, but on the plus side there were less flies & mosquitoes. Also the abundance of low speed limits & double lines in the National Parks was a pain.

20th August Saturday 39720 - 40069 = 349 miles Bigfork to Livingston
Just about covered the length of Montana, know why they call it Big Sky - rolling prairies & long straight roads, except for the first bit which had lovely flowing bends, you could just hold it at 80 MPH. Temperature this morning leaving the hotel was 11°C by the time we arrived at the next hotel it was 32°C Rode with Dave P & Dom all day, Dom & Emmet were hung over as they had partied until 4 or 5am with Jeff Adam Kev & Julia

19th August Friday 39574 - 39720 = 146 miles Waterton to Bigfork
Topped up engine oil for 1st time since leaving home more than 5000 miles. Crossed US Border at Chief Mountain went through Glacier National Park A+ scenery but 35 MPH speed limit double yellow lines & nose to tail traffic spoilt it. Arrived 1st at Bigfork but Dom was back complete with new gearbox & clutch. Rode on my own all day never saw anyone from the group.

18th August Thursday 39226 - 39574 = 338 miles Radium Hot Springs to Waterton
Good weather again, rode with Jonathan today & had Adam (Cameraman) on the back. Mountains turned to prairies, lots of straight roads & traffic getting heavier all the time. Today should have been 225 miles but took a detour to Head-Smashed-Buffalo-Jump well worth it. Entered Waterton National Park beautiful scenery particularly as it was late & the sun was going down over the mountains. On coming out of the Buffalo Jump Visitor Centre there was a huge storm, had to wait for it to pass, couldn't walk to bikes for waterproofs put them on but we rode around the storm.

17th August Wednesday 38956 - 39226 = 270 miles Jasper to Radium Hot Springs
10° C & raining leaving Jasper left on my own & went to Whistler & Edith Cavell Road - both dead ends, very bumpy & potholed, returned to route & called in at Athabasca Falls then it was the Icefields Parkway down to Lake Louise. Stunning scenery all the way dropped to 6°C & snow over the passes.
Lake Louise is like part of Las Vegas in the middle of nowhere. Radium Hot Springs across the road from our hotel (Radium Lodge) were the pools. I didn't go in but the one's that did said it was about 40°C.

16th August Tuesday Day off in Jasper
Torrential rain all morning. Dom set off for USA Border for the BMW Dealer at Missoula to get a new gearbox fitted before the weekend, (he should rejoin us in a couple of days). Had a short walk around Jasper. Same as any tourist place - all gift shops & cafes etc. Had a short run out to a nearby lake about 25 miles each way (dead end) got there in the dry but it rained on the way back. 38891-38956=65 miles.

15th August Monday 38644-38891 = 247 miles Prince George to Jasper
Good start to the day! Dave P had a puncture in his back tyre, had to take the tyre off & plug it from the inside, so a late start. We just put the miles in & caught up with some of the others at lunch / fuel stop. Had to pay to get into Jasper National Park (only road in). Got a little rain on the way into Jasper. Also went though another time zone, now only 7 hours behind UK. In the evening it rained very heavily so ate at the hotel restaurant. Doms gearbox no worse.

14th August Sunday 38371 - 38644 = 273 miles Smithers to Prince George
Rode with Dave P & Dom who had Adam the cameraman on the back, did a bit extra on some dirt roads but got a bit lost. Even Dave Ps GPS didn't show any roads, so we just kept turning off until we got back to a road. Prince George is the 1st big town we have been in since Anchorage, lots of traffic even traffic lights. Over dinner Dom said his gearbox was getting noisy so we changed the oil in the box & see what its like tomorrow.

13th August Saturday 38146-38371 = 225 miles Stewart to Smithers
Straight forward day today. Typical Canadian scenery - straightish roads & lots of trees. Dry & sunny & getting warmer 26° C / 28° C. Just before stopping at Meziadin Junction for fuel, a black bear walked across the road in front of me - but by the time I had stopped & got the camera out it had gone.
About 10 miles further on I came across a dead bear in the road looked like it had been hit by a truck. It was a big mess. Extreme Roadkill. Arrived in Smithers about 3.00 PM getting out of the wilderness now, towns getting bigger & a lot more traffic.

Overview
The sheer scale of things takes some getting used to - like 250 miles between fuel stops with absolutely nothing in between or riding 3 hours without seeing another vehicle. No road junctions or traffic lights just 1 road all day (no need for maps).

16th August, Saturday 36363-36737=374 Miles, Coldfoot to Delta Junction
This should have been a straight forward day, but after a lunch stop at the Yukon River Crossing, David Baines (he of the Sweat Lodge Ceremony) & Jack left first, but when I got to a section of road that was being "redone" (that means putting down a layer of dirt & spraying it with water then scraping & rolling it ) the road worker waved me down. Dave P & Dom were already there. Dave Baines had lost it on the loose dirt & rocks & gone down, breaking his leg. The roadmen had already radioed for an ambulance which was coming from one of the Oil pipeline pump stations, the ambulance picked him up & took him back to pump station to wait for the helicopter. When the helicopter arrived, it flew past us, but then circled round & landed very close to the bikes. Kevin told them that he had been taken to the pump station & when the helicopter took off it blew two of the bikes over & showered us in dirt & stones but no real damage done. We loaded David's bike into the back of the van & Jeff took it back to Anchorage.

We were re held up about 2 to 2 1/2 hours, so we ate on route & arrived at the hotel late.

12th August, Friday

Day off the bike, si I had a maintenance session, including cleaning the air filter which was full of dust. Starting to get very warm no mosquitoes, but lots of flies

11th August, Thursday, 38030-38132=102 miles Bell 2 Lodge to Stewart.

Short day today rode about 60 miles to Meziadin Junction and as I turned in for fuel, a bear walked across the road in front of me. I stopped, but by the time I got the camera out it had disappeared into the undergrowth.

Stopped at Bear Glacier for photos & arrived in Stewart at about 2.00 pm. In the evening rode to Fish Creek which is just over the border back into Alaska. It's where the bears come to feed on the salmon as they swim back upstream.

After waiting about 1 1/2 hours, a grizzly about 4 years old came into the river & walked up & down feeding on the salmon for about 1/2 hour. Rode back about 8.30 pm on the way back got stopped for speeding 126 KPH in a 50 KPH zone but got off with a warning. (Ted's excuse was he need to blow the horrendous dust from him, which was exactly the same excuse Jack had given the same officer only minutes & a mile or so earlier!!)

10th August, Wednesday, 37701-38030=331 miles, Watson Lake to Bell 2 Lodge.

Stewart Cassiar Highway is about 2/3rds tarmac 1/3rd dirt. Excellent days riding stunning scenery beautiful lakes (Dave P,Jonathan, Jeff & Adam went swimming in one of the lakes). Quite a long day arrived at Bell 2 Lodge at about 6.45 pm after setting off at 9.00am. Bell 2 Lodge beautiful hotel with all the rooms as cabins behind the restaurant with 4 rooms per cabin . Weather now getting hot 26'C + the last section of dirt road had been sprayed with oil (they do this to bond the dirt together it soaks in about 12mm) but very off putting when you come across it, (well it would be in the wet.)

9th August, Tuesday, 37310-37701 = 391 miles, Haines Junction to Watson Lake.
Straight forward riding day , weather getting warmer, straight roads & trees. Just getting the mileage in.

Called in at Tlingit Heritage Centre which is a brand new building, but not a lot there. Stopped at Signpost Forest on the way into Watson Lake where everyone leaves a sign with their details on. Over 54000 signs now - but it all felt a little tacky. Belvedere Hotel - just your typical basic motel.

8th August, Monday, 37118 -37310 = 192 miles, Beaver Creek to Haines Junction.
Short days riding, was pretty ordinary - lots of trees passed Kluane National Park & Lake. Raven Hotel in Haines Junction was run by a German Couple a little piece of Germany in Canada .

7th August, Sunday, 36737-37118 = 381 miles, Beaver Creek.
Should have been a 200 mile day, but took a detour to Chicken, so named because the locals couldn't spell ptarmigan which is the national bird of Alaska. Nothing there but a couple of gift shops/cafes & you could pan for gold.

Delta Junction typical 1 horse town.

Overview of the week
 The dust was bad but the worst thing was the mosquitoes & the flies. I  was bitten several times, even though I was using Deet. The second you stopped they were on you by the hundred .

 5th August 36089-36363 = 274 miles
Early start & down to the security gate where Kevin & Julia started their world record & then Dalton Highway back to Coldfoot. A good ride back as a little rain had dampened the dust. Got up to 95 mph on the dirt at one point - just like riding on ball bearings, did 274 miles on the dirt in 4 hours. Riding on my own all day - but ran out of fuel just 1 mile before Coldfoot and so had to use my spare can.

4th August
Easy morning & early lunch, then tour of oilfield which included a swim in the Arctic Ocean. It was cold, but not as bad as I thought, then a quiet night. Prudhoe Bay (Deadhorse) is a dry town - but we took some  drink with us.

3rd August 35829-36089 = 260 miles
Left Coldfoot at about 9.00 am, after about 10 miles called in at Wiseman  which is an early 1900s gold mining town, then off to Prudhoe Bay via the Atigan pass loose dirt all the way, it was like riding on ball bearings  at 80 mph. After the Atigan pass it turned to tundra & was quite flat & boring.  Worst thing was to keep the dust down, they watered the road with  tankers, which is OK for 4 wheel drives but not good for bikes.  Saw some wildlife (Caribou) but no bears.  Arrived at Prudhoe Bay at about 4.00 pm. on one tank full of petrol, as  there is no fuel between Coldfoot & Prudhoe  The place is a little surreal, sort of cross between a shantytown &  something from Mad Max films.
 The hotel was converted workers cabins and we ate in the works canteen /  hotel excellent food.  In the evening some of the group were walking around & came face to face  with a grizzly bear. We went out to look for it - but no sign of it. Saw the midnight sun (sun did not set).

2nd August 35548-35829 = 281 miles Fairbanks to Coldfoot (Dalton Highway)
The first 90 miles tarmac, the  rest a mixture of dirt with short stretches of tarmac. Stunning scenery.  Excellent weather, high teens to twenties degrees C, but the dust was  horrendous.

Lunch stop at Yukon River crossing, I also filled up with fuel as its the  only place on route.  Stopped at the Arctic Circle sign for photos and after that the oil  pipeline runs at the side of the road most of the time.  Countryside changing from forest to tundra. We got to Coldfoot at about  6.00pm. Café / bar on one side hotel (?) on the other. Actually it was  the converted pipeline workers cabins - basic but ok.

 P.S Worst thing about the dust was when the trucks came the other way you  just had to ride through the dust cloud blind & hope for the best.

1st August 35143- 35548 = 405 miles
8.00 am start from the hotel, we travelled as a group until 1st coffee  stop, and then split up. I rode with Dave Power & Emmet.  Beautiful scenery but repetitive lots of trees & sometimes dead straight  roads.  Arrived in Fairbanks 6.15 PM after doing 405 miles.

31St July
Film crew came round from one of the Anchorage News channels (CH 11) &  did some interviews (I stayed out of the way ). We rode past the hotel a  couple of times for the Cameras. Then rode a lap around Anchorage (It  made the 5.00 & the 10.30 news ).

 After lunch I sorted out a few last minute bits & pieces with the bike.  Some local riders came to meet us & invited us to a
BBQ in the evening  at Jerry's. A lovely house with a workshop to die for, about 15 miles  out of Anchorage.

We watched ourselves on the 5.00 PM news & then rode back to Anchorage  for an early night ready for the off tomorrow.

Start mileage at Anchorage 34462  I did 681 miles on runs out from Anchorage.

30th July
Just for a change more rain.  Up the road there's a weekend market might take a look.- Same old stuff  wherever you go in the world. We went up to David Baines' in the afternoon for the Indian Sweat Lodge Ceremony, which is like a Sauna but in a Tent with a frame made of Willow & shaped like an Igloo.  A hole is dug in the centre & 12 Rocks that have been heated in a fire  are placed in the hole, then the door is sealed. David then said a  Prayer & Sang a Song in Native Indian.

Then there were 4 rounds in which you:
 1: Give thanks to Someone
 2: Support or help for Someone else
 3:(Dont Remember) (Typical of Ted not to remember something)
 4: Something to yourself

 In between each round he put water on the rocks. All this this took about 1 1/2 hours - I have never sweat so much.(thought I was leaking!)  We then had a bite to eat at David's & rode back to Anchorage at about  10.00 PM.