Partitour to Central Iberia, June 2011

 

 

There were choices: either take the ferry direct to northern Spain or ride down through France. The   two solo riders chose the latter and the seven other riders, all two-up, chose the 24 hours sea crossing. To be fair, the modern 33,000 tonnes, 10 deck ‘Cap Finistere’ had much to offer including comfortable lounges and cabins, cruise style bars and entertainment and reasonably priced meals, snacks and drinks (coffee £1.30, large beer £3).

Our 14 days tour of central Iberia commenced in Burgos – the first of many interesting cities combining modern design with ancient, well preserved buildings and squares of great historical and architectural merit.

The more obvious routes between stopovers were second choice to alternatives offering more interest for riders. Generally road surfaces were very good with many miles of newly tarmaced, clearly marked and well signed roadways with the latest designs in Armco crash barriers.

 

THE ROAD TO SPAIN

 

 

The new dual carriageways and motorways often had the original single carriageway N road beside them. In many cases these too were being resurfaced and refurbished to similar standards to their replacements.  With their beautifully radiused bends these were often a delight to ride upon and clear of traffic, frequently for tens of miles at a time. Heaven on wheels! The opportunity to experience the sort of road-use densities that were probably last enjoyed in England in the early fifties for day after day was a real delight. However, once in the heart of the cities the widespread use of traditional cobbles all too thoroughly checked out the riders’ teeth fittings and as well as the fasteners on the bikes.

 

SALAMANCA ON GRADUATION DAY

 

 

Fortunately very good weather throughout added to the pleasures of riding and sight-seeing as our tour progressed by various routes through to Salamanca (for two nights), and then on to the UNESCO heritage cities of Caceres and Evora (Portugal), each for three nights.  Within the defensive walls these medieval cities were fascinating places to visit - for the storks too, nesting on every high point and on pylons, poles and bare trees throughout the countryside beyond, along with many red and black kites and eagles.

 

EVORA

 

 

Rides out from Evora included a 150 mile round trip to the coast through lanes and minor roads of the cork tree forests and rice paddy fields to the wonderful eight mile beach of Comporta, where a very relaxing three hours or so was spent soaking up the sunshine, blue sky and seas and people-watching as the Portugese nation celebrated ‘Portugal Day’. Others undertook circular tours enjoying the challenges (riders) and scenery  (pillions) offered by the sometimes testing mountain roads and tracks.

Evora was the most southern stop of the tour and from here, again by various routes, the tour party moved 200 miles north through the mountains to Guarda for a two nights stop. Many riders included a lunch or coffee break at Marvao, a magnificently walled hill top castle and village with views of around 50 miles in all directions or at the small medieval town of Castelo de Vide (both well worth a visit).

 

VIEWS AT MARVEO

 

 

After two Guarda nights we journeyed east, back into Spain by way of a really glorious 190 mile ride through the twists and turns of the quiet roads and mountain passes (to 1850m)  of the Sierra de Pena de Francia, the Sierra de Gredos and the Sierra de la Paramera before arriving in Avila, also for two nights. This city really did deserve a much longer look; walking the huge and magnificent walls was almost a half day outing in itself, not to mention the many civic and religious buildings in this long-standing regional centre. Not surprisingly, some of the tour team spent the day in the city. Others toured out south-east, for a day of riding through the mountains of the Sierra de Guadarrama while taking in visits to the spectacular ‘Royal Warrant’ monastery of El Escorial and the city of Segovia.  

 

COFFEE STOPS ARE IMPORTANT!

 

 

 

Pleasingly, for those taking part in the ride-out, the Spanish Air Force display team saw fit to mark the very moment of the IMTC arrival at Escorial with a double low fly past. With smoke in the colours of the national flag extending behind the team jets highlighted by the mountain backdrop, we felt appropriately honoured. Coincidentally, a large full-dress military parade before the Crown Prince of Spain and military top brass was also being held at the monastery at this time. The return ride took in Segovia, with its magnificent Roman aqueduct providing an interesting stop for the afternoon.

The ride north, by whatever chosen route to our final one-night stay at Palencia, was through Spain’s huge hectares of farmland, demonstrating the extent and variety of the produce grown in this sunny area, from glorious vineyards through to more humble corn and vegetable crops.      

 

FINAL DINNER AT PALENCIA

 

     

Our final meal was taken at the hotel in the warmth of the evening air and the successful tour that went before it. The wine flowed while stories of past tours and personalities grew taller and funnier. We were all happy that this had been a very good tour and exceptionally so for the quality of the hotels and accommodation, for tourers and their bikes, all of which had been personally researched, selected and organised by our much esteemed tour leader, to whom grateful thanks were expressed.

On Thursday morning the solo riders left early for their extended rides to home shores while the two-ups, again by various routes, headed over the mountains in cooler air for a mid-afternoon departure from Santander. One couple even found time to loop west for an additional ride around the Picos De Europa.

 

ITS NOT ALWAYS SUNNY IN THE PICOS!

 

For those on the ferry the 24 hour return crossing, in slightly sterner weather, was made easier by the facilities of the ship. Our on-time arrival at Portsmouth saw us berth next to an unloading banana boat as we prepared  for the soaking rain and 50% temperature reduction that were duly delivered for the 15minute to 5hour journeys to our various homes.

But what a treat of a tour! All needs and preferences were catered for. There were long or short distance rides between venues; lots of choices for scenic and interesting rides to coast and mountains on days when nothing was scheduled; plenty of history, culture, sight-seeing and, yes, sometimes shopping for those with room in their panniers. And in the evenings, lots of laughs and plenty always to talk about.

Petrol prices varied from a typical per litre price of £1.18 (in Spain) to a scary £1.46 (Portugal). In both countries however, good coffee could be enjoyed at about half of the typical UK cost. In the mid-class hotels and restaurants choices of fixed price menus were frequently available at around €10-15 for three courses, including bread, wine, bottled water and coffee (and helpfully, somewhat less expensive at lunchtimes).

The touring bikes included a Yamaha FJR1300 (returning 62.5mpg, two-up and fully laden), a Honda Goldwing 1800, a BMW R1150RS, a BMW R1200 Cruiser, a BMW GS650 (800cc twin), two BMW R1200 GS, a Honda Deauville 650 and a Honda Pan Euro 1100cc.

Mileages in Iberia varied between, approximately, 1800 -3000.